The signet rings have a long and illustrious history spanning many centuries and societies. Renowned history pieces, they have survived and developed from antiquity to the present time, and remarkably, have managed to claim successfully their place in the modern culture, even if with largely changed functions and significance.
The appearance of the signet rings is, in principal, consistent – a metal band – plain or ornate, with a flat bezel (surface) holding an engraved emblem – initials, image, monogram. Traditionally the ring should bear the owner’s personification – whether in letters or an image, such as coats of arms, which was one of the most popular depictions. Modern versions of the signet rings include a huge variety of symbols, not necessarily limited to the wearer’s name or title; nevertheless as a piece of jewellery they still are perceived as intrinsically linked with the wearer’s character, and are therefore more distinctive and personal in nature than other decorative items.
Historically the signet rings are the modern successor of a very similar category of jewellery – the seal rings. Far from simply fulfilling an ornamental role, the seal rings held an essential function in the society as representation of a person of authority – political, military, religious or administrative leader. The surface of the ring containing letters and symbols personifying the owner was pressed into hot wax or soft clay to produce an imprint. This hallmark placed on a document, official letters, state papers, warrants, treaties, or any kind of surface, such as door, would impart authenticity and official sanction, serving both as an identification sign and symbol of power - breaking of the seal without due authorisation amounted to challenging of the authority of owner of the seal.
The first use of seal dates back as far as 3500 BC in Mesopotamia; the Old Testament contains references to kings’ seals. In Egypt the engraved surface was usually pressed to make an inscription into soft clay, which was more suitable material in view of the weather conditions; wax was predominantly used in Europe. Later, in medieval times the seal rings became the established norm for ensuring legality of official papers. By 14th century in England the imprint of the King’s signet ring was required as official stamp on all government correspondence. The wax used for imprinting of the ring emblem was initially colourless. Afterwards, vermillion, a vivid red pigment derived from minerals was added to the wax, resulting in the characteristic red seal, varieties of which are preserved to the present days – some legal documents still bear an embossed piece of red paper affixed to them – a vestige of the once resplendent scarlet imprint of the ruler’s signet ring. One of the most famous signet rings in the world is the Fisherman’s Ring – part of the regalia used by the Pope to authenticate official papal documents. So individual and inherent to the papal persona this ring is, that after the death of the Pope it is destroyed, thus eliminating any possibility of it ever being used again by someone else.
The signet rings that have found their place in the modern jewellery crafts and markets may not be associated with such solemn influence, but they still bear a mark of the identity of the wearer and owner. No longer a practical and political tool, representation or power or sign of legitimacy, they are now more relaxed and decorative in nature, and given as birthday presents, wedding gifts and souvenirs. Nevertheless, to this day they bear symbols and designs meaningful and precious to us, and still feature personal traits and preferences – a part of our individuality projected to the world to manifest, just like in the ancient times, our characters, strengths and values.
The appearance of the signet rings is, in principal, consistent – a metal band – plain or ornate, with a flat bezel (surface) holding an engraved emblem – initials, image, monogram. Traditionally the ring should bear the owner’s personification – whether in letters or an image, such as coats of arms, which was one of the most popular depictions. Modern versions of the signet rings include a huge variety of symbols, not necessarily limited to the wearer’s name or title; nevertheless as a piece of jewellery they still are perceived as intrinsically linked with the wearer’s character, and are therefore more distinctive and personal in nature than other decorative items.
Historically the signet rings are the modern successor of a very similar category of jewellery – the seal rings. Far from simply fulfilling an ornamental role, the seal rings held an essential function in the society as representation of a person of authority – political, military, religious or administrative leader. The surface of the ring containing letters and symbols personifying the owner was pressed into hot wax or soft clay to produce an imprint. This hallmark placed on a document, official letters, state papers, warrants, treaties, or any kind of surface, such as door, would impart authenticity and official sanction, serving both as an identification sign and symbol of power - breaking of the seal without due authorisation amounted to challenging of the authority of owner of the seal.
The first use of seal dates back as far as 3500 BC in Mesopotamia; the Old Testament contains references to kings’ seals. In Egypt the engraved surface was usually pressed to make an inscription into soft clay, which was more suitable material in view of the weather conditions; wax was predominantly used in Europe. Later, in medieval times the seal rings became the established norm for ensuring legality of official papers. By 14th century in England the imprint of the King’s signet ring was required as official stamp on all government correspondence. The wax used for imprinting of the ring emblem was initially colourless. Afterwards, vermillion, a vivid red pigment derived from minerals was added to the wax, resulting in the characteristic red seal, varieties of which are preserved to the present days – some legal documents still bear an embossed piece of red paper affixed to them – a vestige of the once resplendent scarlet imprint of the ruler’s signet ring. One of the most famous signet rings in the world is the Fisherman’s Ring – part of the regalia used by the Pope to authenticate official papal documents. So individual and inherent to the papal persona this ring is, that after the death of the Pope it is destroyed, thus eliminating any possibility of it ever being used again by someone else.
The signet rings that have found their place in the modern jewellery crafts and markets may not be associated with such solemn influence, but they still bear a mark of the identity of the wearer and owner. No longer a practical and political tool, representation or power or sign of legitimacy, they are now more relaxed and decorative in nature, and given as birthday presents, wedding gifts and souvenirs. Nevertheless, to this day they bear symbols and designs meaningful and precious to us, and still feature personal traits and preferences – a part of our individuality projected to the world to manifest, just like in the ancient times, our characters, strengths and values.